Pros-Aide I Adhesive (1 oz)

Product Information

These silicone/solvent glues tend to cost more, as the hoops that manufacturers have to jump through to get a skin-safe material out to market mean a lot of extra work. You can also use PVP/VA Copolymer (70% Polyvinylpyrrolidone & 30%Vinyl Alcohol). You can find it at just about any place that sells supplies to make home made lotions, makeup, hairspray, among other things.” Is glue being used elsewhere but successfully on the makeup? Some skin’s just don’t adhere well and need cleaning and prepping more than others. A mix of 1:1 alcohol and Telesis can be used as a primer on the skin first, applied where the piece sits (and slightly beyond), allowed to dry fully before gluing the piece on with straight Telesis. Apply to both surfaces and allow it to dry thoroughly before applying.

You can remove Spirit Gum with Spirit Gum Remover or rubbing alcohol, which could cause a skin reaction. This removes much of the water content, which in Prosaide is at 45-50%, producing a moulding glue with a significantly higher solids content. By reducing the water, we can get more solids into our moulds, which minimizes shrinkage in the final piece. Reducing water content also reduces final drying time. To paraphrase Lance the drug dealer in Pulp Fiction, “That stuff costs more, but when you use it, you will know where that money went! After the bulk of the piece is off, hot face cloths work wonders to loosen remaining glue and feels fantastic after a day under makeup. Hot water can be used to soak the face cloth first, and then be twisted to dry. These bubbles are not the same as those introduced in the mix by overbeating, and it is unlikely that the issue is actually purely overheating either, as the temperatures used are too low. It appears to be most likely that the precise mechanism by which they form is due to a combination of excessive water remaining in the mix PLUS using accelerated drying. Either of these factors on their own would not seem to be an insurmaountable issue, but when they combine, the components in the chemical formulation of the adhesive appear to be negatively affected by too-rapid drying times. Uneven contraction of the various components of the mix results in proper cross-linking failing to occur evenly throughout the piece, and we observe imperfections forming.

This Doc was originally posted by Andrea Dinoboy Leanza in April 2012. Due to technical hitches with Facebooks system they had to be deleted and reposted. Unfortuantely that means comments people added have been lost. My apologies… The Telsis glue you mentioned, is it 5, 7 or 8? I ask because PPI have an acryic adhesive called Beta Bond which confusingly has the word ‘Telesis’ on it – that isn’t going to bond to a silicone surface such as Third Degree. If Telesis 5, 7 or 8 won’t do it, then the glue isn’t the issue.

They have different names, ingredients and come in varying quantities making the possible combinations of what to buy overwhelming. Although they are more readily available, it is worth pointing out that Spirit Gum (in it’s standard form) and Liquid Latex are not serious contenders where prosthetics are involved. If you put silicone over wet silicone adhesives, the liquid solvent can’t evaporate and is held against the skin, not drying. pattern, and they begin to form a continuous, cohesive film. As this occurs, the polymer spheres, composed of long chains of acrylic, actually deform and partially combine with one another in a process of film formation called coalescence. Both these techniques use Pros-Aide for adhesive and if you are using them repeatedly the last thing you want is to irritate the actors skin. Make sure you PREP the skin – Use all your arsenal: Dermashield, Sweatstop, Barrier Spray, whatever… and then use the best and most efficient remover you can get your hands on. Avoid rubbing the skin wherever possible, dab and roll… Mouldlife do a product called “Life Wipes” that are great for removing Pros-Aide after the prosthetics have been removed. You usually get the internal membrane of Baldiez left behind after removing with Pro Clean or Super Solv but those wipes just get that residue off in seconds. Also brilliant you can just give the actor a hand full to take home in case they stumble across an errant bit of glue. (Thanks Neill!)Here’s the basics, but for a proper tutorial I recommend you get yourself one of the excellent instructional books and dvds that are available. Todd has helpfully posted a How-to for 3D Prosthetic Transfers, with pics, in the Photos section on this group. THE MOULD: Both use silicone moulds. Obviously we need to use a platinum silicone for the GFAs as we will be using a platinum silicone to make the pieces (PlatSil Gel-10 with Smith’s Deadener. For transfers you can use a tin silicone mould.

They each have their advantages and disadvantages and were both developed to provide an answer to much the same problem: How do you construct a prosthetic that can be premade in bulk, without the need for a lifecast, in a generic shape to fit anyone, flexible enough to adapt itself to the contours of the body? Right now I hear a chorus of people saying “foam latex”, and its true you can make little pieces that will do all those things, but, and its a big but, when you get larger pieces you get problems with edges not sitting flat, and there is also the issue of foam requiring a vastly superior paint job (and favourable lighting!) to look ‘real’. Also, when I started I didn’t have an oven to bake foam in but I DID have a dehydrator… (I like to experiment in the kitchen as much as in the workshop.). Whereas both the GFA and Pros-Aide transfers begin life already far more skin-like in texture and colour, and are also incredibly simple to apply and easy to colour…so much so that sometimes they hardly need painting at all.Occasionally bubbles will appear even at lower drying temperatures, and even when no direct airflow is on the surface of the piece. In these cases it seems most likely that the mixture contained too much remaining water and would be better off dried very slowly at room temperature. Pros-Aide® is the base for PAX Paint™– a combination of water-based colors with Pros-Aide®. PAX Paint™ is a flexible color with high bond strengths used for the skin and many surfaces. To perform this technique, take a splatter brush or a toothbrush, and dip it into an alcohol activated paint that has been sheered out with an activator. She created a reddish shade to match the tones in her complexion. A good skin cleanser and moisturiser work well as a final flourish to help skin recover from a days prosthetic makeup wear. Most prosthetic glue removers have some kind of oil content, and this greasy film can be removed afterwards using a cleanser or from simply washing the skin as normal. Bondo / Cab-O-Patch cab-o-sil and pros-aide cream/filler – used to fill air bubbles, or to help correct edges

Otherwise, kits are usually built by the individual over a period of time, replenishing some items over and over, or simply buying the latest palettes, new colours or out of kit effects for specific jobs, etc. Skin effects e.g. scab paste, wound filler, fresh scratch, pus, vomit, chapped lips, rigid collodion, old age stipple Using a food dehydrator is recommended. It is possible to let pieces dry at ambient room temperature, this will take much, much longer, but also runs the risk of surface contamination and success is dependant upon local temperatures and humidity.Medical adhesives, like the Kryolan Extra Strength Medical Adhesive shown here, are also perfect for sensitive skin. The transfers are made of, well, GLUE! And they are very robust, tenacious, and don’t come off till you want them to. I’ve had them covered in the kind of stuff that normally eats prosthetics for breakfast and they hung in there. Hi Scott. The main issue with Third degree or other silicone pastes is that they are not typically soft enough to be able to keep up with the flexible skin. Like a band aid popping off a bent knee or elbow, the skin is so much more flexible and stretched in use that the pieces need to be as soft as the skin on which they sit. To have a ‘stiffer than skin’ appliance means the bond of any glue is heavily tested, and sweat will only help to undo the effects of adhesive making it come away. This process traditionally involves putting the liquid glue into a mixer and beating it on a slow speed for hours and hours. The purpose of this is to gradually expose the water to the air and promote slow evaporation. In cold environments training a fan heater or hairdryer onto the